The Village of Waiting
by
George Packer
This
is the only book I know of by a former PCV about Togo. Too bad. Although Packer
has some talent as a writer, his vision of Togo is ugly, even repulsive. Where
many of us saw a nation with both flaws and charms, Packer goes out of his way
to describe even the most benevolent scenes in a negative manner. Here are a few
example:
- On
Peace Corps training: The idea of training was essentially futile.
College graduates without a word of French or a day's teaching experience had
ten weeks to learn French, something of Ewé or another local language,
and English instruction within the French West African educational system before
being packed off alone to teach in a village school. This while suffering from
heat and dysentery, pining for letters from home, and wondering if we hadn't been
flown to the wrong planet.
- On farmers going
to their fields: Farmers, like columns of ants after a rain, emerged
from shade and torper and began going to the fields every day.
- On
the children of Togo: Nothing was more unnerving than the children.
- On
trips to the Atakpame market during staging: These
were occasions of terror.... We were like a herd of prisoners being brought out
in a cage for public inspection, looking through bars at the world around us and
unable to make any sense of it, or to get away from its sights and smells. A hundred
black eyes stared back in.
- On
a gift of fufu from a neighbor: The next night the glob of fufu
sent over was the size of a monkey's skull.
A monkey's skull? If
anything in the book reveals the writer's sophomoric attempts to project his own
inability to adapt to Togo on his surroundings, it is this comparison. Of all
the things a ball of fufu could be compared to in order to give a sense of its
size (a cantelope, a round loaf of bread, even a bowling ball) the comparison
to a monkey's skull is both absurd and offensive.
It
should come as no surprise to the reader of this book that Packer quits his assignment
before the end of his two years, for no reason he cares to articulate. It's a
dirty trick for a teacher to abandon his students, but in Packer's case my guess
is that they all breathed a sigh of relief. You may want to read this book because
it is about Togo, but be prepared to be turned off by the writer's nasty attitude.
This book is (thankfully) out of print, although you may
find it at larger libraries, especially at universities.